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Monday, January 3, 2011
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Harvesting!
Finally, all that work is starting to come to fruition.
Believe it or not, there is still time to sow one last round of seeds. This is the last practical date to plant vegetables that thrive in cool weather including: lettuce, spinach and arugula, carrots, beets, broccoli, Swiss chard, kale and all kinds of Asian greens. Choose disease-resistant varieties that mature quickly. If planting a late-season crop of peas, choose bush peas rather than traditional climbers, as they mature more quickly.
As soon as plants such as lettuce, spinach and peas have passed their prime, pull them out and replant. Use every square foot — even little spaces where a cucumber plant expired or the cilantro went to seed. Put the old plants into your compost pile, then aerate the soil and replenish nutrients by forking in some compost and organic fertilizer. Rake the surface smooth and sow something new!
When cold weather arrives, protect plants from frost and cold by covering them with landscape fabric (which you can pick up at a garden center) or using a cold frame (this video will tell you how to build a very simple frame: http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Build-a-Cold-Frame-60035573 - you can also buy one at a home and garden store OR online).
Remember that the Farmer’s Almanac’s Average Frost date for Zone 5 is October 3rd for this year, so you should have your cold frames up BEFORE that date.
Some of your vegetables are probably ready to harvest (Cabbage, Collards and kale, Carrots, Beets and Chard, Lima Beans, Corn, Peppers, Summer Squash, Zucchini, Cucumbers, and Tomatoes). There are a few things to keep in mind about harvesting veggies:
Bigger does NOT mean better, unless they specify that they are best grown to a large size, they are best picked when medium sized. If they are allowed to grow too large they will get tough (kale, spinach, lettuce), tasteless (zucchini, cucumbers, squash) or mealy (tomatoes). You can tell by touch (is it becoming soft?) or color (is the color deepening?), if so, it’s time to pick and eat!
Don’t forget your vegetables that are underground. Potatoes are ready then the leaves have died back, pull onions when the foliage has toppled to the ground, carrots and beets are ready when they look like they are starting to come out of the ground (you’ll see the tops easily).
If you pick them, more will grow. This is especially true with leafy veggies, cucumbers, peas and beans. Their job is to reproduce, so once they think their job is done, they’ll stop producing fruit. Picking the vegetables tricks the plants into producing more and more fruit (or vegetables). For leafy greens, pick the outer leaves when they get to about 5” tall. You can get quite a few salads out of each head before it turns bitter. When that happens, pull the roots and toss it in the compost (see above).
What about your herbs? At this time of year, you’ve probably noticed that your Basil has flowers at the top and the bees are seem to be having a ball each time you pick a few leaves. That means it’s gone to seed. Ideally you keep trimming it back, day after day, so it doesn’t produce the seeds. But if it does and the leaves of the basil (or other herb) are getting large, coarse and thick, it’s time to harvest it. Harvest all herbs in the morning when their oils are at their peak. See below for drying instructions.
Unless you are installing a cold frame (see above), you want to make sure that your garden is completely harvested by the first frost (around October 3rd for Zone 5). Of course there is an exception: turnips, they do best harvest after the FIRST cold snap, but don’t wait long after that or you’ll lose them to the ground freeze.
So what do you do with green tomatoes that have to be harvested? There are two schools of thought (both work very well). You can uproot the entire plant, hang it upside down in a basement, garage or shed until the fruit is ripe. You can also pick each tomato, wrap it in newspaper, place them in a brown bag and put it on top of your refrigerator. Warmth is far more important at this point then light. If you are feeling impatient and don’t want to wait, make dinner with them (http://recipes.epicurean.com/asc_results.jsp?title=Green+Tomato for great recipes).
Eat them right away, if possible. Most vegetables taste best when eaten the same day they are picked! Of course you may not want to eat the 36 cucumbers that your garden has just given you. If you have too many to eat at once and you are afraid that they will spoil you have quite a few options.
There are many, many books that go over all of these topics. If you are unsure which you would like, here is a quick rundown of what each entails and a reference guide that I recommend on each subject.
Canning - Canned goods can last for several years. However, their optimal life is one year, over time canned good does lose nutritional value. Like with most things, there are two ways to can. I suggest using a pressure canner (which you can purchase almost anywhere or online). The other vital requirement for canning is the jars and lids; they can be purchased at most department stores and grocery stores. The other pieces of equipment that, while not absolutely necessary, are very helpful to the canning process. A blancher is a basket that fits inside a large pot. Foods in the basket are lowered into the boiling water and then easily removed for transfer to cold water. A Colander is a handy strainer. A Jar Funnel helps to pour food into the jars without making too big a mess. A Jar Lifter will make removing jars from very hot water much easier and safer. Other handy tools are a long-handled slotted spoon and a ladle. For more information about Canning, I recommend reading “Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving“
Freezing – some vegetables are much more giving when it comes to freezing. Stay away from freezing anything with high water content. Tomatoes are best frozen after prepared (i.e. sauce or tomato puree), zucchini or squash is best prepared in soup or bread before freezing. On the other hand peppers, beans, peas, winter squash, berries, carrots, corn, and beets do well once blanched (dropped for a short time into boiling water).
Dehydrating (drying) –With rare exception all vegetables and fruit can be dehydrated successfully. Before starting the dehydrating process the vegetables and fruit need to be washed, sliced and blanched, except onions and peppers, and mushrooms. (More information: http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/dehydrating-vegetables.html ). To dry herbs cut at base (do not wash), bind them together with butchers twine and tie to a hanger. Hang it in a dry well ventilated area that doesn’t get much foot traffic. Make sure the herbs are not getting direct light. In two weeks, they’ll be dry and ready for storage in an air tight container.
Friday, July 23, 2010
What to do? PLENTY!
While watering and weeds are at the top of the to-do list, with planting and other chores at a minimum, keeping a garden diary should also be on your list. As you move about your garden this year do some experimenting and write down what happens. Chances are if you don’t write it down, you won’t remember next year. Make notes, to plan for fall reworking of problem spots, or a bed redesign. You can add ideas for next year’s gardens as you drive past someone’s house or tour a local historic sites.
Task 1 : JAPANESE BEETLES! YIKES!
Last week I went out to my vegetable garden to see that the Japanese Beetles had eaten most of my basil! This is the time of year that pests get bold! If you have Beetles eating your Basil, Hydrangea, Roses, Iris’s, Rhododendron or Wisteria there are multiple ways of ridding yourself of them, some more labor intensive then others. DO NOT put down milky spore! It’s too late!! Milky Spore is a naturally occurring bacterium that is effective in controlling Japanese beetle grubs only. (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/gaston/Pests/japbeet.html). Once the grubs have emerged (now) the spores will be ineffective against the beetles, you’ll have the engage the enemy using different means (but make a note in your diary to add milky spore in the fall for NEXT year’s infestation). Handpicking (as with other obvious pests like tomato hornworms) in early morning and drown in a can of water can reduce infestation, as can the traps that are sold at most local hardware stores. The list of home remedies goes on and on, people have recipes for ridding themselves of pests that have been passed down for generations. Be attentive and pro-active and you should be fine.
Task 2: WATERING
Anyone living in the Hudson Valley knows that for most of July, we’ve been in a drought. It looks like it’s turning around now, but plants need about an inch of water a week from you or the heavens. If it’s not raining, it’s up to you to keep them moist. Purchase a rain gauge to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. Soak deeply in the root zone; do NOT just spritz them with a sprayer now and again. Potted plants need extra attention as it gets hotter, especially smallish ones in sun, and they also need regular feeding. Be alert! Young trees are especially vulnerable to drought, if you’re having a dry year; particularly the oldest and the youngest (those planted in the last few years) water deeply or use a Tree-Gator. A weekly walk through of your gardens will be beneficial. Not only will you enjoy seeing the benefits of all your hard work, you can weed! Weeds are not just unsightly but steal moisture, nutrients and light from your plants. If your mulch is looking a bit thin, add some more now, not only will it help keep weeds at bay you’ll need to guard against Augusts’ heat stealing all of the moisture from the soil. Your best bet is to be aware of the rainfall (which is easy to do), if it hasn’t rained in three days, wander out to your garden, put the hose in low and soak your plants for 15-20 minutes as you weed. The best time to water is before the sun comes up and then as it is going down. You will have less evaporation and more moisture going into the plants.
Task 3: PRUNING
CUT THOSE SPENT FLOWERS! If you were squeamish about cutting back spent spring flowers, you may be regretting it now, and face wilted brown, exhausted plants in certain spots. Some perennials do better if cut back hard. Go for it. A rule of thumb is to allow spring bloomers to flower and leaf out freely. But if the plant tends to get diseased early in the summer, then cutting it back immediately after blooming. If perennials that have already flowered are getting leggy, cut it back. They will sprout new leaves IF it’s healthy. If a plant gets too leggy in the pot, it should be whacked back (to the ground of by half), this forces it to become bushier and to generate new leaves to make it a presentable. Just understand that some plants such as hosta do not like to be cut back and will sulk if you do. Remember to throw some compost or fertilizer on the plants to help them recover from the shock. Others need just deadheading of spent blooms. Annuals that grow leggy can often benefit from a chop job, too. For trees and shrubs be on the lookout for dead, damaged, diseased wood, suckers and water spouts, prune them out. All of the spring flowering trees and shrubs (like lilacs, quince, dogwoods, crabapples, pear, weigelia, etc) reach the end of their pruning window after the beginning of July. Prune them NOW or you risk damaging the emerging buds for next year’s blooms.
Task 4: FEEDING
Stop fertilizing woody plants. Promoting more soft growth in high summer isn’t good; time for them to start moving toward the hardening-off phase of their cycle. Don’t fertilize again until late winter or earlier spring.
Task 5: VEG GARDEN
Don’t let the compost heap dry out completely, or it will not “cook.” Turning it to aerate will also hasten decomposition, but things will rot eventually even if not turned.
Most people think that if they didn’t get the seeds in by the end of May, they are sunk for the rest of the year. NOT TRUE! Many gardeners start their fall crops now. Plant your fall crop of carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, kale, basil, dill, kohlrabi, mustard and spinach. Make sure that they get in NOW, or it WILL be too late. Some gardeners start their seeds for spring now too, cauliflower and broccoli especially. I’ve not had any luck overwintering them yet. This is a great opportunity to treat your vegetable garden like a science experiment! Write down what happens when you plant your fall crop. Try overwintering some of the hardier vegetables and see what happens!
For the best flavor start harvesting your, basil, sage, marjoram and oreganos, mint, tarragon, just before bloom. Harvest lavender, rosemary and chamomile as they flower, blossoms and all.
Strawberry beds may need rejuvenating now. According to the University of Illinois Extension (http://urbanext.illinois.edu/strawberries/growing.cfm), June-bearing strawberries should be renovated every year right after harvest. A strawberry patch will continue to be productive for three to four years as long as the planting is maintained. The first step is to cut off the leaves about one inch above the crowns, rake out and if disease-free, compost. Fertilize using 10-10-10 fertilizer (1lb per 100 square feet). Remove all weeds. Thin the plants in the narrowed row to 4 to 6 inches between plants. Water. Enjoy!
Stay cool, enjoy your gardens and drink plenty of water while you are outside.
Task 1 : JAPANESE BEETLES! YIKES!
Last week I went out to my vegetable garden to see that the Japanese Beetles had eaten most of my basil! This is the time of year that pests get bold! If you have Beetles eating your Basil, Hydrangea, Roses, Iris’s, Rhododendron or Wisteria there are multiple ways of ridding yourself of them, some more labor intensive then others. DO NOT put down milky spore! It’s too late!! Milky Spore is a naturally occurring bacterium that is effective in controlling Japanese beetle grubs only. (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/gaston/Pests/japbeet.html). Once the grubs have emerged (now) the spores will be ineffective against the beetles, you’ll have the engage the enemy using different means (but make a note in your diary to add milky spore in the fall for NEXT year’s infestation). Handpicking (as with other obvious pests like tomato hornworms) in early morning and drown in a can of water can reduce infestation, as can the traps that are sold at most local hardware stores. The list of home remedies goes on and on, people have recipes for ridding themselves of pests that have been passed down for generations. Be attentive and pro-active and you should be fine.
Task 2: WATERING
Anyone living in the Hudson Valley knows that for most of July, we’ve been in a drought. It looks like it’s turning around now, but plants need about an inch of water a week from you or the heavens. If it’s not raining, it’s up to you to keep them moist. Purchase a rain gauge to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. Soak deeply in the root zone; do NOT just spritz them with a sprayer now and again. Potted plants need extra attention as it gets hotter, especially smallish ones in sun, and they also need regular feeding. Be alert! Young trees are especially vulnerable to drought, if you’re having a dry year; particularly the oldest and the youngest (those planted in the last few years) water deeply or use a Tree-Gator. A weekly walk through of your gardens will be beneficial. Not only will you enjoy seeing the benefits of all your hard work, you can weed! Weeds are not just unsightly but steal moisture, nutrients and light from your plants. If your mulch is looking a bit thin, add some more now, not only will it help keep weeds at bay you’ll need to guard against Augusts’ heat stealing all of the moisture from the soil. Your best bet is to be aware of the rainfall (which is easy to do), if it hasn’t rained in three days, wander out to your garden, put the hose in low and soak your plants for 15-20 minutes as you weed. The best time to water is before the sun comes up and then as it is going down. You will have less evaporation and more moisture going into the plants.
Task 3: PRUNING
CUT THOSE SPENT FLOWERS! If you were squeamish about cutting back spent spring flowers, you may be regretting it now, and face wilted brown, exhausted plants in certain spots. Some perennials do better if cut back hard. Go for it. A rule of thumb is to allow spring bloomers to flower and leaf out freely. But if the plant tends to get diseased early in the summer, then cutting it back immediately after blooming. If perennials that have already flowered are getting leggy, cut it back. They will sprout new leaves IF it’s healthy. If a plant gets too leggy in the pot, it should be whacked back (to the ground of by half), this forces it to become bushier and to generate new leaves to make it a presentable. Just understand that some plants such as hosta do not like to be cut back and will sulk if you do. Remember to throw some compost or fertilizer on the plants to help them recover from the shock. Others need just deadheading of spent blooms. Annuals that grow leggy can often benefit from a chop job, too. For trees and shrubs be on the lookout for dead, damaged, diseased wood, suckers and water spouts, prune them out. All of the spring flowering trees and shrubs (like lilacs, quince, dogwoods, crabapples, pear, weigelia, etc) reach the end of their pruning window after the beginning of July. Prune them NOW or you risk damaging the emerging buds for next year’s blooms.
Task 4: FEEDING
Stop fertilizing woody plants. Promoting more soft growth in high summer isn’t good; time for them to start moving toward the hardening-off phase of their cycle. Don’t fertilize again until late winter or earlier spring.
Task 5: VEG GARDEN
Don’t let the compost heap dry out completely, or it will not “cook.” Turning it to aerate will also hasten decomposition, but things will rot eventually even if not turned.
Most people think that if they didn’t get the seeds in by the end of May, they are sunk for the rest of the year. NOT TRUE! Many gardeners start their fall crops now. Plant your fall crop of carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, kale, basil, dill, kohlrabi, mustard and spinach. Make sure that they get in NOW, or it WILL be too late. Some gardeners start their seeds for spring now too, cauliflower and broccoli especially. I’ve not had any luck overwintering them yet. This is a great opportunity to treat your vegetable garden like a science experiment! Write down what happens when you plant your fall crop. Try overwintering some of the hardier vegetables and see what happens!
For the best flavor start harvesting your, basil, sage, marjoram and oreganos, mint, tarragon, just before bloom. Harvest lavender, rosemary and chamomile as they flower, blossoms and all.
Strawberry beds may need rejuvenating now. According to the University of Illinois Extension (http://urbanext.illinois.edu/strawberries/growing.cfm), June-bearing strawberries should be renovated every year right after harvest. A strawberry patch will continue to be productive for three to four years as long as the planting is maintained. The first step is to cut off the leaves about one inch above the crowns, rake out and if disease-free, compost. Fertilize using 10-10-10 fertilizer (1lb per 100 square feet). Remove all weeds. Thin the plants in the narrowed row to 4 to 6 inches between plants. Water. Enjoy!
Stay cool, enjoy your gardens and drink plenty of water while you are outside.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Where's the rain?!
If you live in the Hudson Valley, you know that the rain has been meager, a few showers at night is not enough to keep my grass from browning out. Gardeners and homeowners alike need to keep their gardens watered, without wasting it. You can do this various ways. I've seen homeowners placing empty milk jugs at each plant in their garden. They fill them up each night and let the plants take what they need. There are simpler ways that don't depend on your ability to drink gallons of milk first. Try reducing weeds around plants, this will prevent the weeds taking water away from the plant. Mulching around plants with tree bark, this helps with water retention. Hand-water if possible. Research shows that hand-watering can be the most efficient way to irrigate because you often can see when the soil is moist and provide water only when the plants need it. Provide water only when needed. You can look for clues to water stress, such as slight wilting or a dull, transparent look of the leaves. This strategy works well for trees and shrubs.
Keep in mind that you CAN plant in dry weather, although it is not ideal. When you plant new perennials, shrubs and trees, provide a long soak from a hose to saturate the soil deeply in the immediate area. For each of these plants turn the hose on low, otherwise you'll be washing away topsoil and mulch. For perennials, leave the hose on for 1- 2 minutes for each plant. Shrubs 5-10 minutes and newly planted trees 15minutes. You should repeat this process several times, especially during dry periods, to give your new shrubs and trees the resources to grow strong and deep root systems that will require less water in the future. If plants start drooping, they need water.
Keep in mind that you CAN plant in dry weather, although it is not ideal. When you plant new perennials, shrubs and trees, provide a long soak from a hose to saturate the soil deeply in the immediate area. For each of these plants turn the hose on low, otherwise you'll be washing away topsoil and mulch. For perennials, leave the hose on for 1- 2 minutes for each plant. Shrubs 5-10 minutes and newly planted trees 15minutes. You should repeat this process several times, especially during dry periods, to give your new shrubs and trees the resources to grow strong and deep root systems that will require less water in the future. If plants start drooping, they need water.
Friday, April 9, 2010
Shop local - especially in the spring
This spring has come quickly and with widely varying temperatures. Yesterday it got up to 80 degrees, today it was raining and cool at 50 degrees.
With this in mind, it's finally time to start planting!
This week we will go into how to install and plant your vegetable garden.
In the last few posts I went over how to start seedlings inside. I'm going to assume that you had some success with the seedlings and are ready to plant them. If they all ended up dried and shriveled up, do not despair! It's probably warm enough to plant the seeds directly in the ground OR you can head out to a locally owned garden center to purchase nice sized plants in a few weeks.
Regardless of how they start in your garden, vegetables are easy to grow and are very rewarding when they are ready to be harvested. The most important requirements are sunshine and watering. Beyond that all you need is soil, some fertilizer, a bit of weeding and a container if you choose to do a container garden. If you have an area in your yard that gets sunshine most of the day (6-8 hours) then you can have a vegetable garden, even if it is mostly concrete. Your first year requires the most amount of work, but don’t get discouraged, the work you do in the beginning does not have to be done again each year. I recommend that you start slow. Do you really need a 30'x30' garden? Can you start small and expand next year?
If you are starting a container garden, please make sure it's large enough for the mature plant! A tomato will die if you put it into a 3 gallon sized container, it's just not big enough. Aside from the container, you need soil. Unless you are a chemist and enjoy balancing the pH of your soil, head out to a local garden center and purchase GOOD quality garden soil (make sure you ask someone at the gardening center if you are unsure about whether the soil is appropriate for your vegetables. bring the soil home, add the appropriate amount of fertilizer and mix it together. Plant your seedlings and you are DONE! Congratulations, go make yourself a cosmo and relax.
If you are planting your garden in the traditional way,before you plant, do yourself a favor and create a planting plan making sure you allow enough room for the plants at their mature size. All you need is a pencil, paper and maybe a ruler (if you like straight lines) to draw the garden plan out. Be aware of where the sun rises, sets and hangs in the midday sky so the tallest plants do not shade the shorter ones. Plants generally get larger then most gardeners realize! READ YOUR PACKETS! THEY AREN'T LYING! When you purchased your seeds, the packet had information on how much room they will need when fully grown, if you are purchasing plants, the tag should give you this information. When it says plant every 18" and you are looking a teeny tiny little seedling, you may be tempted to plant them every 8", DON'T DO IT! Your little seedling will grow and quickly. If they don't have enough sun and air circulation they get stressed (very much like humans) and they won't produce quality vegetables, and that's why you are doing this right? So allow enough space for each one.
Next, readying the planting area: Some gardeners believe that the ground that the plants will grow in needs to be loosened up so that the roots of the tender vegetable plants can grow into your soil and make strong, healthy plants. The argument is that the roots are the only way the plant takes up water and nutrients so you want to make their job easy. I disagree. I believe that it disturbs the environment that has already been developed! If you kill the weeds by smothering them with soil or compost, not only do you eliminate most of the work involved with starting a garden, but you add compost automatically! All you need to do is cover the area with cardboard or layers of wet newspaper (anything that will decompose quickly), followed by several inches of grass clippings, shredded leaves or weed-free hay, straw or compost. Add fertilizer now and amend in the top 4-6" of soil. Use a hand trowel to pull back the mulch, cut away sod, and open up planting holes for your seedlings! Pop in your seedling, plant or seeds (if you are ABSOLUTELY confident that the chance of frost has passed). You should water gently after planting until the soil is moist at 1" below the surface. Water again when the soil appears dry on the top.
Make sure you have enough compost down and that will help retain some of the moisture. If the summer comes and rain is plentiful, don't worry about watering all the time. If it doesn't rain for three days, make sure you go out to check on everything. I've seen some beautiful gardens that have died due to lack of water.
Now, brush off your hands and go inside for a tall glass of water. After all of that work you may need to rehydrate yourself!
Next week: Shrub and perennial planting
With this in mind, it's finally time to start planting!
This week we will go into how to install and plant your vegetable garden.
In the last few posts I went over how to start seedlings inside. I'm going to assume that you had some success with the seedlings and are ready to plant them. If they all ended up dried and shriveled up, do not despair! It's probably warm enough to plant the seeds directly in the ground OR you can head out to a locally owned garden center to purchase nice sized plants in a few weeks.
Regardless of how they start in your garden, vegetables are easy to grow and are very rewarding when they are ready to be harvested. The most important requirements are sunshine and watering. Beyond that all you need is soil, some fertilizer, a bit of weeding and a container if you choose to do a container garden. If you have an area in your yard that gets sunshine most of the day (6-8 hours) then you can have a vegetable garden, even if it is mostly concrete. Your first year requires the most amount of work, but don’t get discouraged, the work you do in the beginning does not have to be done again each year. I recommend that you start slow. Do you really need a 30'x30' garden? Can you start small and expand next year?
If you are starting a container garden, please make sure it's large enough for the mature plant! A tomato will die if you put it into a 3 gallon sized container, it's just not big enough. Aside from the container, you need soil. Unless you are a chemist and enjoy balancing the pH of your soil, head out to a local garden center and purchase GOOD quality garden soil (make sure you ask someone at the gardening center if you are unsure about whether the soil is appropriate for your vegetables. bring the soil home, add the appropriate amount of fertilizer and mix it together. Plant your seedlings and you are DONE! Congratulations, go make yourself a cosmo and relax.
If you are planting your garden in the traditional way,before you plant, do yourself a favor and create a planting plan making sure you allow enough room for the plants at their mature size. All you need is a pencil, paper and maybe a ruler (if you like straight lines) to draw the garden plan out. Be aware of where the sun rises, sets and hangs in the midday sky so the tallest plants do not shade the shorter ones. Plants generally get larger then most gardeners realize! READ YOUR PACKETS! THEY AREN'T LYING! When you purchased your seeds, the packet had information on how much room they will need when fully grown, if you are purchasing plants, the tag should give you this information. When it says plant every 18" and you are looking a teeny tiny little seedling, you may be tempted to plant them every 8", DON'T DO IT! Your little seedling will grow and quickly. If they don't have enough sun and air circulation they get stressed (very much like humans) and they won't produce quality vegetables, and that's why you are doing this right? So allow enough space for each one.
Next, readying the planting area: Some gardeners believe that the ground that the plants will grow in needs to be loosened up so that the roots of the tender vegetable plants can grow into your soil and make strong, healthy plants. The argument is that the roots are the only way the plant takes up water and nutrients so you want to make their job easy. I disagree. I believe that it disturbs the environment that has already been developed! If you kill the weeds by smothering them with soil or compost, not only do you eliminate most of the work involved with starting a garden, but you add compost automatically! All you need to do is cover the area with cardboard or layers of wet newspaper (anything that will decompose quickly), followed by several inches of grass clippings, shredded leaves or weed-free hay, straw or compost. Add fertilizer now and amend in the top 4-6" of soil. Use a hand trowel to pull back the mulch, cut away sod, and open up planting holes for your seedlings! Pop in your seedling, plant or seeds (if you are ABSOLUTELY confident that the chance of frost has passed). You should water gently after planting until the soil is moist at 1" below the surface. Water again when the soil appears dry on the top.
Make sure you have enough compost down and that will help retain some of the moisture. If the summer comes and rain is plentiful, don't worry about watering all the time. If it doesn't rain for three days, make sure you go out to check on everything. I've seen some beautiful gardens that have died due to lack of water.
Now, brush off your hands and go inside for a tall glass of water. After all of that work you may need to rehydrate yourself!
Next week: Shrub and perennial planting
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Spring is almost here....
This time of the year is the most frustrating for most gardeners. It's almost spring, it's ALMOST time to start digging and planting, but not yet. As the weather in the Northeast has taught me, you have to wait. If you plant your new seedlings to early a late frost will kill them. If you plant annuals to early a frost will kill them.
A few more weeks and we will be able to plant to our hearts content. We just have to be patient.
A few more weeks and we will be able to plant to our hearts content. We just have to be patient.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
What to do - March
March in New York is still pretty cold. We often get snow and as I read my favorite website I noticed that a large majority of the country starts to plant and garden in March. At the end of a wet fall and a very cold winter, I'm jealous. But there are still a few things to be done to get me through to April.
- Finish pruning deciduous plants, like fruit trees, flowering shrubs, grapes and cane berries before they leaf out. Pruning keeps older hedges and shrubs looking good. There is no other way to keep a shrub lush and flowering for a decade or more then to prune. Check your shrubs, are the branches densely packed with only a few leaves within the center? If so, you need to do some thinning. Thinning out the canes on the shrub can lengthen it's life span and improve it's appearance. In the early, early spring you can take out as many as 1/3 of the oldest, thickest canes to ground level without stressing the shrub. Don't go beyond a 1/3 of the canes, though, or you will stress the plant. If your shrub has very little new growth consider removing 1/4 of the old wood to ground level. If there are water sprouts, cut them back. If you notice suckers, remove them. If branches are crossing and rubbing again each other, remove one of the branches. Always remove deadwood as soon as you see it.
(image from Mike Zins and Deborah Brown's "Pruning Trees and Shrubs" Item # 00628, 1997, All rights reserved)
- If your garden soil is thawed, plant summer bulbs (begonias, gladiolus, dahlias and lilies).
- Place beer traps or slug pellets around plants for slug control. Be sure to keep away from pets, children etc. Better yet, if you live near a pond, fill it with natures crack team of slug exterminators: frogs.
- Start your vegetable garden! This is my favorite part of March. I start by sending in my seed order. Then I head to a local hardware store (or Agway) to purchase trays. Personally I think containers vary as personalities vary. Try a variety to see what works for you, but be sure they have adequate drainage. Be sure to clean them out. If you are using peat pots, make sure to soak them before adding the soil. The dry fiber pots will draw moisture away from the soil, leaving the soil and seeds dry as a bone. This year I'm going to try and make my own using newspaper and a cool gadget that I found in a catalog.
Find a sunny window with southern exposure. If you don't have a window that will do, consider purchasing cool-white florescent bulbs. Check the back of your seed packet for lighting requirements. Once germinated, all seedlings need light to develop into strong, healthy plants, so make sure you don't scrimp on the light.
When your seeds** arrive, either by catalog or a stop at the store, get out the containers/tray and soil. When planting the seeds, I've had the best luck with a commercial peat moss mixture. I've tried making my own, using compost and the gardening soil, but I've always had more luck when I've broken down and purchased a bag from the local Agway.
Fill pots or flats 3/4 full with your soil of choice. Water, letting the excess drain away. Make a little hole in the center, the eraser end of a pencil is the perfect size. Make sure you don't plant them too deep, fine seeds just need a coating of soil, where larger seeds need to be planted 4 times as deep as the seed is wide (plus or minus).
Make sure you check your seeds at least every other day, the soil needs to be kept moist (not soaking wet, the seeds will rot). I use a sprayer that I picked up from the pharmacy. If you decided to go with a tray as your container, consider purchasing a topper for it, it will keep humidity high and reduce the times you have to water.
Once you see at least three leaves on your little seedling, you can fertilize. I generally wait until I plant them outside for this step. If you do fertilize now, use an organic fertilizer that has been diluted significantly, don't burn the roots.
Depending on where you live, this step will vary from one week to two or three. When you are about ready to plant your seeds outdoors you need to start bringing them outside during the day. This is called "hardening off". This gets the soft plants ready for the elements. Move the plants to a shady outdoor area of the first few days, bring them indoors for the night. In the following days, place them in a slightly more bright area of your yard, the idea is to get them exposed to longer periods of light each day, don't forget to bring them inside at night. Spring nights can be cold and the new plants will die. Keep them well hydrated and check often for insect damage.
Before moving them to their permanent homes make sure the danger of frost has passed. It would be a shame for all your hard work to wither at a chance frost. I suggest having a planting plan in place well before you are planting your seedlings. Before planting water your new garden and the seedlings. Dig a hole twice as wide as your seedling pod. Place in your seedling and back fill. Make sure your plant doesn't stick above the level of the ground. Press the soil around the plant down firmly and water again. This is when I choose to fertilize, even though the plants are a bit larger, I still dilute the fertilizer for a few weeks.
To help your plants develop a deep rooting system, water deeply (for a length of time)and check on your new plants at least every other day for the first few weeks.
**Keep in mind that it's a good idea to use seeds that are "fresh" (purchased this year), if you do have seeds from last year, plant them! See what happens but I won't get your hopes up for a lush vegetable garden. There is no harm in using old seeds, the worse that can happen is that you don't get a sprout. The vegetables that come from out of date seeds are the same as those that are grown from fresh seeds. It's not a question of "waste not want not", but rather your chances of germinating old seeds. Keep in mind that there are three major things affect a seed’s viability, Their age (After the first year, the germination rates for out of date seeds will start to fall), the type of seed (depending on how mother nature packaged them to begin with. For example, pepper seeds probably won't germinate after two years. Beans, tomatoes, carrots and peas keep for about four years. And cucumber or lettuce can stay viable up to 6 years.) Of course this all depends on how they are stored. They have a greater chance of lasting into the following year of they are kept in a cool, dark place. Garages and storage sheds because of the varying temperatures from summer to winter, are not the ideal place to store seeds. A weather controlled house in a dark corner is better.
Happy Gardening!
- Finish pruning deciduous plants, like fruit trees, flowering shrubs, grapes and cane berries before they leaf out. Pruning keeps older hedges and shrubs looking good. There is no other way to keep a shrub lush and flowering for a decade or more then to prune. Check your shrubs, are the branches densely packed with only a few leaves within the center? If so, you need to do some thinning. Thinning out the canes on the shrub can lengthen it's life span and improve it's appearance. In the early, early spring you can take out as many as 1/3 of the oldest, thickest canes to ground level without stressing the shrub. Don't go beyond a 1/3 of the canes, though, or you will stress the plant. If your shrub has very little new growth consider removing 1/4 of the old wood to ground level. If there are water sprouts, cut them back. If you notice suckers, remove them. If branches are crossing and rubbing again each other, remove one of the branches. Always remove deadwood as soon as you see it.
(image from Mike Zins and Deborah Brown's "Pruning Trees and Shrubs" Item # 00628, 1997, All rights reserved)
- If your garden soil is thawed, plant summer bulbs (begonias, gladiolus, dahlias and lilies).
- Place beer traps or slug pellets around plants for slug control. Be sure to keep away from pets, children etc. Better yet, if you live near a pond, fill it with natures crack team of slug exterminators: frogs.
- Start your vegetable garden! This is my favorite part of March. I start by sending in my seed order. Then I head to a local hardware store (or Agway) to purchase trays. Personally I think containers vary as personalities vary. Try a variety to see what works for you, but be sure they have adequate drainage. Be sure to clean them out. If you are using peat pots, make sure to soak them before adding the soil. The dry fiber pots will draw moisture away from the soil, leaving the soil and seeds dry as a bone. This year I'm going to try and make my own using newspaper and a cool gadget that I found in a catalog.
Find a sunny window with southern exposure. If you don't have a window that will do, consider purchasing cool-white florescent bulbs. Check the back of your seed packet for lighting requirements. Once germinated, all seedlings need light to develop into strong, healthy plants, so make sure you don't scrimp on the light.
When your seeds** arrive, either by catalog or a stop at the store, get out the containers/tray and soil. When planting the seeds, I've had the best luck with a commercial peat moss mixture. I've tried making my own, using compost and the gardening soil, but I've always had more luck when I've broken down and purchased a bag from the local Agway.
Fill pots or flats 3/4 full with your soil of choice. Water, letting the excess drain away. Make a little hole in the center, the eraser end of a pencil is the perfect size. Make sure you don't plant them too deep, fine seeds just need a coating of soil, where larger seeds need to be planted 4 times as deep as the seed is wide (plus or minus).
Make sure you check your seeds at least every other day, the soil needs to be kept moist (not soaking wet, the seeds will rot). I use a sprayer that I picked up from the pharmacy. If you decided to go with a tray as your container, consider purchasing a topper for it, it will keep humidity high and reduce the times you have to water.
Once you see at least three leaves on your little seedling, you can fertilize. I generally wait until I plant them outside for this step. If you do fertilize now, use an organic fertilizer that has been diluted significantly, don't burn the roots.
Depending on where you live, this step will vary from one week to two or three. When you are about ready to plant your seeds outdoors you need to start bringing them outside during the day. This is called "hardening off". This gets the soft plants ready for the elements. Move the plants to a shady outdoor area of the first few days, bring them indoors for the night. In the following days, place them in a slightly more bright area of your yard, the idea is to get them exposed to longer periods of light each day, don't forget to bring them inside at night. Spring nights can be cold and the new plants will die. Keep them well hydrated and check often for insect damage.
Before moving them to their permanent homes make sure the danger of frost has passed. It would be a shame for all your hard work to wither at a chance frost. I suggest having a planting plan in place well before you are planting your seedlings. Before planting water your new garden and the seedlings. Dig a hole twice as wide as your seedling pod. Place in your seedling and back fill. Make sure your plant doesn't stick above the level of the ground. Press the soil around the plant down firmly and water again. This is when I choose to fertilize, even though the plants are a bit larger, I still dilute the fertilizer for a few weeks.
To help your plants develop a deep rooting system, water deeply (for a length of time)and check on your new plants at least every other day for the first few weeks.
**Keep in mind that it's a good idea to use seeds that are "fresh" (purchased this year), if you do have seeds from last year, plant them! See what happens but I won't get your hopes up for a lush vegetable garden. There is no harm in using old seeds, the worse that can happen is that you don't get a sprout. The vegetables that come from out of date seeds are the same as those that are grown from fresh seeds. It's not a question of "waste not want not", but rather your chances of germinating old seeds. Keep in mind that there are three major things affect a seed’s viability, Their age (After the first year, the germination rates for out of date seeds will start to fall), the type of seed (depending on how mother nature packaged them to begin with. For example, pepper seeds probably won't germinate after two years. Beans, tomatoes, carrots and peas keep for about four years. And cucumber or lettuce can stay viable up to 6 years.) Of course this all depends on how they are stored. They have a greater chance of lasting into the following year of they are kept in a cool, dark place. Garages and storage sheds because of the varying temperatures from summer to winter, are not the ideal place to store seeds. A weather controlled house in a dark corner is better.
Happy Gardening!
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